Encre Noire EDT by Lalique

 

 Encre Noire is an award-winning creation by Nathalie Lorson and in my opinion a masterpiece. With the introduction of ball-point pens, typewriters, printers, computers, email, sms, photoshop, facebook and twitter, black inkpots have disappeared from mainstream communication. I remembered preparing ink using an inkstick for calligraphy and being fascinated by its intense darkness and rich earthy aroma but I never mastered calligraphy for I was never the patient one. Possessing this handsome heavy bottle is a reminder of the black-ink days.

Encre Noire captured the essence of zen calligraphy. It is a soft, airy, meditative stroke of a brush dipped in vetiver, cypress, grapefruit, musk and cashmeran. The top note reveals a quiet cypress forest at dawn sweetened by morning dew leading to a well executed vetiver heart that is linear, leathery, smoky and earthy without excessive nuttiness. The clean dirt note in patchouli contributes to the realistic ink accord. Drydown is musky with cashmeran (IFF) and sweet with amber, and woody like oud.

This is a very personal fragrance as its sillage is not roaring but it envelopes the wearer in an aura of unassuming elegance. Apart from wearing it, I also find this most appropriate for scenting writing paper.

Rating: *****

Green Cousins

Here I present you two fragrances by very different companies, in very different packaging, with very different stories, but similar in story and perfume structure.

                        
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A Taste of Heaven by Kilian                                                                                                                                                                     Eau de Gloire by Parfum D'Empire

I have a thing for fragrances in green and I think that's because it gives it a potion-like appeal. I once described to a friend what I do for a living and he quickly replied 'you're a witch!'. Perhaps that is why I fell in love with A Taste of Heaven. Created by the very talented Calice Becker, it was 'inspired by Absinthe, bittersweet nectar of poets.' A Taste of Heaven opens with an intoxicating dance of green bergamot and absinthe, followed with a candied lavender solo, supported by a warm bitter-sweet ensemble of amber, oakmoss and vanilla. It is as mesmerizing as the green fairy can get and this is one mysterious oriental-fougere for the modern witch with a fat wallet.

When I sampled Eau de Gloire, I knew I had to do a comparison with A Taste of Heaven. Eau de Gloire was created by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, founder of Parfum D'Empire, and was his homage to the olfactory experiences in a day in the life of Napoleon Bonaparte. It opens citrusy and aromatic with bergamot, lemon, orange, rosemary and lavender, not unlike Guerlain's Eau de Cologne Imperiale. The heart is sweet with aniseed and tea, bearing a little resemblance to A Taste of Heaven and drydown threads lightly with tobacco, incense and oakmoss. The journey of Eau de Gloire is documented well by it's well defined exposition, climax and dénouement and is a modern take retaining characteristics of the classic colognes.

Rating:

A Taste of Heaven ****1/2
Eau de Gloire ****

Ceci n'est pas une pipe

I'm a fan of René Magritte's La trahison des images, the painting of a tobacco pipe with 'Ceci n'est pas une pipe' written below it. It's a simple work, but very thought-provoking nevertheless as it explores the paradox of realism-art. 'The Magic Paintbrush' is only fiction and no matter how accurate an image is, it is but only an image. Likewise in perfumery, we can come close but we will never have the perfect rose.

I based my latest project on this painting, hoping to capture the essence of paradox in fragrance but it was more challenging than I'd expected since initially I thought all I had to do was to create a hyper realistic wood pipe accord. I began to question whether the pipe is new or old, and clean or dirty as that will change the olfactory image. I decided on a clean cherry wood pipe, pressed with fresh unburnt tobacco. The questions were never-ending and I pondered on the type of tobacco, or whether the pipe is lacquered, or what material would the mouthpiece be. It all got a little confusing at that point I began to wonder if the paradox was on me.

This is still a work in progress and I will update the progress.

Sécrétions Magnifiques by Etat Libre d'Orange

 

With a name like that, I knew I had to get it, even if it means buying it blind. Etat Libre d'Orange (Free State of Orange) is a niche perfumery founded by the suave Etienne de Swardt who brought pop art, bold language and fragrance together. According to ELdO, Sécrétions Magnifiques contains accords of iodine, adrenaline, blood, milk, iris, coconut, sandalwood and opoponax. It's no rocket science that this perfume intends to shock (or educate) and buying it blindly certainly added more suspense.

My first spray shouted 'chemical cocktail!'. It was a very haute couture type of opening. Unexpected, a little strange, slightly familiar yet distant and definitely not a everyday prêt-à-porter. The top starts sharp, astringent, oily, aldehylic, metallic, greenish-mushroom and a little aquatic. It was a little hard to describe the metallic notes, but I can paint you the perfect sensation. Stick a spoon into your mouth and let it touch the metal amalgam and stick your tongue there. You get this metallic twang and it makes your mouth waters. That's how it feels and if you still can tolerate this, what you will find next is more agreeable as it unfolds and reveals the milk and floral. Still, it's not your usual creamy goodness or rose garden, but more like milk with iron powder and anodized iris. Once you get the top notes out of the way, it is actually rather pleasant when the lactonic notes dominate and the sandalwood and opoponax performs. 

This is definitely not something for the first date, job interview, or any occasion that requires you to leave a safe impression. It is wearable and non-offensive, but only if there's at least an hour gap between time of spraying to first contact with other persons. The sillage and tenacity is monstrous so less is more and I cap it at 2 sprays max.

Rating: ***

A*Men Pure Malt, Thierry Mugler

I have to be honest here. When I first heard that Thierry Mugler was launching another A*Men flanker called Pure Malt, I was hyper excited. Why? I adore the smell of Horlicks and am one of those who wouldn't mind smelling like milk and cereal. I can definitely bathe myself in 2-Acetyl-1-pyrroline and homofuronol and be a happy man. Alas, when I found out there is not going to be any cereal, I was devastated, but only for a moment. I happen to love whisky and the smell of aged oak casks.

Pure Malt starts out sweet and diffusive and reminds me of this Asian malt candy that is mainly maltose. The first time I tried it, I didn't wait for the alcohol to evaporate and what I got was an ethereal sting up my nose. Perhaps this is why many people find the top note very boozy. As it settles, patchouli and coffee becomes very evident. I do enjoy how the cedarwood note performs in this fragrance tucking nicely between patchouli and the sweet notes. I also get a bit of tobacco which is most suitable.

This is not a complicated fragrance at all so don't expect it to change dramatically over time. It will only get softer and earthier and that's when you can find the vetiver. The sillage and tenacity is nothing compared to A*Men which is not a bad thing considering you'd be able to wear this daily without choking anyone in the elevators. It is presented in a black rubber flask with the star in transparent glass and comes in a lovely black and gold box which is, well, very limited edition looking.

Rating: ****

Kim Kardashian to launch new fragrance with Reggie Bush?

'Kim Kardashian wants to release a new fragrance with her boyfriend Reggie Bush. Kim — who recently debuted her first perfume at Sephora in Century City Mall in Los Angeles — has hinted that the New Orleans footballer may be joining her in bringing out a range of “unisex” perfume. “Reggie and I have talked about doing a fragrance together — something that is kind of unisex,” she said. However, Kardashian admitted that her boyfriend prefers her natural look. “He just likes my natural sexiness,” she said. “He likes my natural scent.”' (source: Showbizspy)

Okay, what's next? Paris Hilton to launch new fragrance with Tinkerbell? While I'm not a huge fan of celebrities wanting their own juice, I can understand from the business and ego point of view. Per purchase royalty is definitely higher in perfumes than CDs and there is no better publicity than having your name and face plastered all over Sephora. The art of perfumery to me is almost sacred, but alas, I have to accept that consumerism is bigger than art and I have learnt to accept, accommodate and review the latest celeb frag. But I do not understand the idea of launching a fragrance with your celebrity partner. It's just too personal. Unless you have a sex tape.

No. 1

I've been meaning to write about fragrances for years. This is probably the longest I've procrastinated with something but I'm not exactly sure why. Perhaps it is a fear of lack of knowledge. So tonight, after running out of ethyl alcohol and glassware, I decided to birth this page.

How long I'll last? We'll see.

For now, to grace this page, I present you my maiden review.

Hermèssence Vétiver Tonka by Hermès

I've had the Hermèssence range for almost 3 years now. I fell in love with Brin de Réglisse and was very partial to Rose Ikebana, Ambre Narguilé and Osmanthe Yunnan but Vétiver Tonka missed my attention. It was always the inconspicuous one. Yesterday, I decided to revisit the range and thought I'd give VT another go.


VT was created by Jean Claude Ellena and is true to his minimalistic, translucent style in the Hermèssence collection. Indubitably the work of a master, Ellena was able to create simplicity in complexity and contrasts. VT is fresh but warm, juicy but dry, smoky but clean. It opens with fresh bergamot and green tea and the top is light and aquatic. Vetiver and dried fruits enter next and bring in depth and roundness. The hay-like tonka and tobacco accord supports the composition with broom flower peeking in and out. The fragrance is sweet but its neither heavy nor excessive, but instead, very well-balanced.

This is definitely a morning fragrance for the cool but sunny days. Summer fragrances have a tendency to smell cheap and/or one dimensional so if you are looking for a little more sophistication and don't mind the extra dollars, VT should go on the shopping list. Considering this is not a perfume with expensive florals and coumarin is cheap as, you are really paying the extras for skills and of course, the brand. 

Rating: ***1/2