Monday, March 29, 2010
The rose is perhaps the most understood of all flowers for it is a symbol of love and beauty and mentioned in the world's library of proses, poems, folklore and history. It is used in art, perfumery, beauty, medicine and is also an indispensible material in fragrances for men. As you might have already guessed, this post is an introduction to the world of roses for men.
Egoiste by Chanel is spicy and woody with a mysterious carnation and bulgarian rose heart. This is the playboy's rose.
Charriol Men by Charriol - sweet and distinguished, this features rose among green grass and amber. A rose for the heir born with a silver-spoon.
Dreamer by Versace is a mesmerizing fragrance that is almost too hard to describe with words. It sits up there in my top 10 and features rose infused in gin and herbs. A rose for the hopelessly romantic romeo.
Rose 31 by Le Labo is a cardboard rose with hints of spices and coconut. It smells so clean yet dirty at the same time. Perfect rose for a surgeon.
Black XS by Paco Robanne - Froot Loops for a big man. Juicy, succulent fruit platter decorated with devilish black roses, this is emo-rose.
Calamity J by Juliette had a Gun is so masculine that Romeo decides he should wear it instead. This is serious rose dealing with musks and woods so forget anything fruity and loopy. Calamity J is rose for a male rebel.
Saturday, March 27, 2010
As promised, the first 'The Scenter Giveaway' is here and one lucky reader will receive a bottle of Morgan's Light My Heart. This is a musky, floral woody fragrance featuring passionfruit, grapefruit, water lily, amber, patchouli, musk and sandalwood.
To qualify for the draw, simply fulfill these criterias between now till 10th April 2010:
1) Follow 'The Scenter' on Facebook, Twitter or Google.
2) Post at least 1 comment on 2 separate posts from now till 10th April 2010.
That's it! The lucky reader will be announced on 11th April so keep those comments coming!
Friday, March 26, 2010
Ume is a fruity floral chypre that is hardly conventional. Having lived in Art Deco apartments, this fragrance is a spot on expression of the mood in one. It opens with bright citruses, a sharp lacquer note not unlike persimmon, balanced by the sweet-salty roundness of ume (Japanese plum). The heart is a bouquet of delightful oriental florals such as wisteria, jasmine, osmanthus and sasanka that is more fresh than narcotic. Supporting this is a blend of handsome hinoki, mahagony, suede and incense.
I think this is a fantastic perfume despite a few strange notes here and there. Think a Kabuki performance in French. There is something uniquely Japanese about this fragrance, like the scent coming out of an exquisite Japanese incense box. This is not for a teenage girl (or any ladies trying too hard to be cute) and you do need to be a woman of substance and respect to carry this off. You need to have the poise, grace and decorum of a geisha.
Needless to say, it became mine. So my original plan was to write a review, but I don't think I should since it will come out totally biased. I love everything about this perfume - from the box design, which screams luxury, to the insanely orgasmic phallus shaped ribbed bottle design, the masculine citrus woody spicy juice, to the almost-porn press ads. This is not only fragrance, it is a damn sexy lifestyle.
Picture by Thomas
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
It was a chore trying to decide which of the Bonds I should do a review on first but since I adore Andy Warhol and I love soup, it's gonna be Andy Warhol Silver Factory.
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Bianca Solorzano reported on "The Early Show" that city employee Susan McBride complained she was "chemically sensitive" and a co-worker's perfume and room deodorizer made it difficult for her to breathe and do her job -- so much so that she suffered migraines, nausea and coughing.
Ann Curry Thompson, McBride's attorney, told CBS News, "You can't come into a workplace loaded in one of these so-called designer perfumes that broadcasts itself across the room."
McBride won a $100,000 settlement. Detroit city employees in the three buildings where McBride works are now being warned not to wear scented products, including colognes, aftershave, perfumes, and deodorants, or even use candles and air fresheners...
source: CBS News - The Early ShowI find this case truly ridiculous. It is very debatable whether the use of personal fragrances is a personal right but to totally eliminate the use of personal products, whether for vanity or hygiene, for the sake of one person, whose claim in the first place is not very justifiable, in three buildings, is absurd. We are social creatures who will accommodate for our community, but only to a certain extent. Let me highlight a few points:
1. There are other objects in the office that may trigger sensitivities. The photocopier is a big contributor of chemicals and cations to the office air. Not forgetting the 'sick building' syndrome, recycled office air is a contributor too. The chronic exposure to such conditions for someone who is sensitive results in a constant inflammatory state that anything could be a trigger for her symptoms. We cannot remove the photocopier from the office and definitely not the air, so perhaps she should remove herself from the office and work in an environment that is better for her?
2. The excessive and wrong use of fragrances is an irritation and this I agree, but the lack of deodorizing gives me a bigger headache. Many people use fragrances not to smell good, but to not smell bad. I certainly cannot stay focused in an environment where people start to emit excessive personal odour after the afternoon sun. Maybe she should come here and take the MRT at 6pm and then tell us if it gives her a bigger headache.
3. Perhaps the man sitting next to Ms McBride in the office suffers from trimethylaminuria and the only fragrance that is able hide his fishy odour is A*Men and now that he can no longer wear any scent, he suffers from daily embarrassment and faces the possibility of a dismissal.
4. You don't ask for trees and plants to be removed just because you suffer from debilitating hayfever. You wear a mask, stay indoors and take vitamin C.
I'd like to know what you think about this case so please comment.
CLEAN by Randi Shinder was inspired by soap and is supposed to make you smell like you've just stepped out from the shower. I found it a little hard to position this brand since they don't exactly fit into the mould of a niche perfumery but yet what they produce is rather niche and at the same time functional. 'Functional niche perfumery' might describe them best.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Friday, March 5, 2010
This is not something anyone can pull off for you do need the thick jaws, thick wrists, fat fingers and furry chest to make this fragrance work for you, otherwise you will only end up awkwardly strange. Nevertheless, it is great art in a bottle thus is worth a keep. Ambre Russe is created by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato and features notes of rum, incense, coriander, cinnamon, vanilla, samovar tea, amber, honey and leather.
Rating: ****1/2 image source: wikipedia.org
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
Nasomatto is a niche perfumery with few words to say. They do not release fragrance notes nor give a definitive picture of how their fragrance should smell. Because they do not publicize the notes of the perfume, it gives the wearer a unique olfactory experience with total freedom in interpretation. As such, I decide to approach this review in the form of a narrative.
He stopped and in front of him stood a magnificent Chinese temple with green brick walls and white porcelain roof. The door was big and heavy but he pushed hard and got in. Immediately, he was engulfed in smoke from the many joss-sticks burning out of porcelain urns and although heavy, it did not choke him. He looked around and could not help noticing how new and clean the walls were. His guess was confirmed by the smell of fresh paint lingering in the air amidst the smoke.
He walked down a corridor lined with pots of white flowers and corn mint and before he got to the other side, he saw a little animal run across the room. Curious, he investigated and found it to a rather tame civet. He followed the civet and entered a room where he saw an exquisite day bed carved out of teak and lined with well-aged leather. It was a temptation he could not resist and he laid on it. Slowly, he drifted to sleep and the temple started to disappear, and very soon he found himself sprawled in the corner of his own bedroom. Unfortunately, it was his last hit and he had no more heroin^ left for him to return to the magical temple.
^China White is a slang for refined heroin.
Monday, March 1, 2010
Today I did an extremely fatiguing exercise by investigating accords created by combining blood orange with different aroma chemicals. The exercise is simple - one drop of blood orange essential oil on a scent strip with one drop of aroma chemical. This is a very effective way of training your nose to recognition and picking out the changes in quality when you create an accord. Let's say you decide to compare blood orange with 10 different aroma chemicals and you line them up and go through one by one, while taking short breaks in between and after you've complete all 10 and hopefully written down your olfactory notes, you repeat the exercise again, but this time using clementine essential oil, followed by tangerine, mandarin, pink grapefruit, bergamot ... ... ... and you will realise why there arn't many perfumers in the world, and why only a handful are good at what they do.
Fortunately we are blessed with the ability of deductive reasoning which means as we become familiar with the scent of certain molecules, we are able to assume the resulting scent if we combine that with another molecule we are familiar with.
eg. d-limonene smells sweet, citrus, fresh and orange
vanillin smells sweet, creamy, phenolic, vanilla
therefore, d-limonene + vanillin should smell sweet, orange, creamy,
therefore, d-limonene + vanillin smells like orange ice-cream
This of course is not true all the time, as I discovered once again today when putting blood orange and heliotropin together. Heliotropin's odour description is cherry, vanilla, coconut and creamy with cinnamic nuances. Using deduction, it should smell like some orange based dessert but I was wrong and who would have guessed? Warm white pepper vegetable broth.
To fix this issue, The Scenter presents you our very own prototype of the Celebrity Headspace Scanner: